ancient portal tomb

ancient portal tomb

carpeted with Irish moss long

before St. Patrick

Today many people celebrate St. Patrick's day, whether or not they have a drop of Irish blood, by wearing green the color of shamrocks and moss. Do they know that March 17 was not his birthday but his death day? Or that he was the son of Romans living in Scotland? Or that he was captured and lived as a shepherd slave in Ireland for six years before he escaped back home? Perhaps they know about his call from God to return to Erin to convert the pagans druids to Christianity. 
          Thousands of years before the death of St. Patrick or the birth of Jesus, neolithic peoples built huge stone burial sites on the island. At the entrance to the passage leading into the house of the dead, these New Stone Age farmers erected a megalithic portal. The huge stone entry, much taller than a man, consisted of two thick pillars supporting a massive capstone. Few of these portal tombs still exist intact, but wherever they stand, they are sure to be carpeted with moss.
          Irish moss (Sagina subulata) has a different color, texture and smell than any other moss. Cushiony, velvety, earthy, this tiny evergreen ground cover proliferates in the moist island climate. A lowly plant, it flourishes in the narrow space between a rock and a hard place; it survives being trod upon. Irish moss will surely keep regenerating long after the rigid structures of humans have crumbled. 

Tenby Beach, low tide

Tenby Beach, low tide,

walking through clear reflections

of stone cliff houses

After crossing the channel from Rosslare in Wexford County, Ireland, we stop at Tenby in Pembrokshire County, Wales. A sign in Welsh says the name of the town is Dinbych-y-Pysgod, which means little fortress of the fish. This was once a seaside fort overlooking a little harbor on the southwest coast of Wales. A medieval town grew up around Tenby Castle, which is now in ruins, as is a small castle on St. Catherine's Island. Several miles of clean, sandy beaches lie on either side of a promontory, a popular holiday spot. We join the crowds strolling along the north beach, enjoying the feel of water and soft sand on bare feet.

on a rocky hill

on a rocky hill

white-faced black sheep with curved horns –

hiding, not hidden

Connemara, the rocky coast of County Galway, is wild and beautiful. Sheep are everywhere, beside the road, on the road, lying in the soft Irish grass, peering out from crannies among the rocks. There are so many rocks, so many sheep,we figure the sheep eat rocks.