Showing posts with label gods. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gods. Show all posts

Saturday, August 13, 2011

girls playing hand games



girls playing hand games,
washing our laundry, simple
actions, deep meaning


A pair of girls are playing a hand game on the bale while Robin and I wash our clothes in a bucket on our porch. As Robin is twisting her wet kamben she says, "A pregnant woman would not do this because it might strangle the baby with its cord." This statement reminds me so much of my superstitious grandmother that I laugh. But as a westerner living and working with the Balinese people, Robin respects their beliefs. She says a lot of them make sense when you understand the Balinese world view. The cosmos is divided into three worlds. The gods and spirits of ancestors reside in the upper world (swah), living humans reside in the middle world (bwah), and demons reside in the lower world (bhur). Geographical locations follow the same system, with mountains being swah, the plains, bwah, and the ocean, bhur. The human body also follows this tripartite division, with the head being swah, the torso, bwah, and the legs and feet, bhur. Robin tells me that Balinese will not walk under a clothesline for fear of underwear touching their heads. Laundry can't be hung in trees, or else the fruit and flowers can never be used for offerings again. Instead, laundry has to be laid on special bushes. A baby's feet are not allowed to touch the earth for the first 210 days (one year in the wuku calendar), until the tedak siten ceremony. I look up at the girls playing on the bale and ask, "Is it okay to pat children on the head?" Robin shakes her head but assures me that any actions done out of ignorance will be expiated by some offerings. Thank goodness for undoing rituals!

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

three fearless macaques





three fearless macaques 
lounge on top of the sign for
temple of the dead

On our way through the Sacred Monkey Forest, we pass by Pura Dalem Agung, the Temple of the Dead for the village of Padan Tegal. Robin tells us that this is the realm of Rangda, the witch queen of the leyaks, or evil spirits. She is depicted as a nude old woman with long shaggy hair, a hideous fanged face with goggle eyes and long, protruding tongue, pendulous breasts and claws. However, the macaques who roam the premises do not seem the least bit frightened by the horrific child-eater. Rangda means "widow," and according to one story, she was an 11th century queen exiled by the king for practicing witchcraft, who went on a rampage of revenge, killing off half the kingdom with the plague. She may also be the Balinese version of Kali, the Hindu goddess of destruction and transformation. The temple of the dead contains a cemetery for those awaiting the proper time or funds for the Ngaben cremation ceremony, as well as the cremation site itself. This temple is always located south of a village. Although Bali is a fairly small island, there are basically only two spatial directions: kaja, an auspicious orientation towards Gunung Agung, the island's highest mountain, and kelod, an inauspicious orientation towards the sea. Kaja is considered good because gods and ancestors are believed to live in mountains, while kelod is evil, because demons live in the sea. Temples and homes are oriented so that the most sacred spaces are closest to the mountain and the unclean places nearest to the sea.