under the neon

under the neon

Shaiko Sushi sign, black lacquer

plate glows pink blue green

On a Friday evening in January, Shaiko Sushi is packed with diners. Our small Midwestern town, population 9,500, offers a surprisingly wide range of ethnic restaurants, from  Mexican to Chinese, Indian, Thai, Middle Eastern and Japanese. Shaiko Sushi is the newest establishment, a hole-in-the-wall with a few tables and stools along the bar, where diners can watch a basketball game on the big screen TV. In the tiny kitchen the chef creates culinary works of art that are both exquisite and delicious, like this plate of makizushi. Even though it's way below freezing outside, a small vestibule keeps out the cold air, while the happy, laughing customers and delectable food warm the inside.