black on white habit

black on white habit, 

a nun looks back before

entering the door

In Cusco, the look of concern on this nun's face as she pauses before entering a door makes me wonder what could possibly cause her to worry. Catholicism, brought by the Spanish conquistadors, is still the predominant religion in Peru and the Roman Catholic Church is greatly supported the government. The Church is largely tax-exempt and many clergy receive monthly government stipends. Catholicism is the official religion of the military and the only religion taught in public schools. However, indigenous people, like many throughout the world, have adapted Catholic deities and festivals to their own beliefs and customs. The Inka Viracocha, the Creator, is identified with the Christian God, and Pachamama, the Earth Mother, with the Virgin Mary. Fiestas often occur on Catholic feast days, but often coincide with precolonial festivals tied to the agricultural calendar. Thus, beliefs come to coexist and blend together.

the deep blue waters

the deep blue waters

of rock puma lake lapping

earth mother's fingers

Amaru, our Inka shaman, tells us that Titicaca means Rock Puma. This massive lake, which sits at 3,800 m (12,500 ft), is sacred to indigenous Andeans, who believe that Viracocha, the creator, brought light to the world by raising Manco Capac, the sun, and his half-sister wife, Mama Ocllo, from the lake into the sky. These amazing rocks at Castle Beach look like porpoises or blue whales covered with barnacles. The rocks are actually red but the mottled coating of lichens and the light reflecting from the deep azure water makes them look mauve. I walked barefoot along the rocky shore for hours in the sun, which beat down with a fierce intensity at this high altitude. I slathered sunblock on my face but foolishly neglected my winter-pale feet. I woke up at night with my feet on fire, wishing I could soak them in that cold water again.