the deep blue waters

the deep blue waters

of rock puma lake lapping

earth mother's fingers

Amaru, our Inka shaman, tells us that Titicaca means Rock Puma. This massive lake, which sits at 3,800 m (12,500 ft), is sacred to indigenous Andeans, who believe that Viracocha, the creator, brought light to the world by raising Manco Capac, the sun, and his half-sister wife, Mama Ocllo, from the lake into the sky. These amazing rocks at Castle Beach look like porpoises or blue whales covered with barnacles. The rocks are actually red but the mottled coating of lichens and the light reflecting from the deep azure water makes them look mauve. I walked barefoot along the rocky shore for hours in the sun, which beat down with a fierce intensity at this high altitude. I slathered sunblock on my face but foolishly neglected my winter-pale feet. I woke up at night with my feet on fire, wishing I could soak them in that cold water again.