sorcerer playing pipes,
condor feathers in the reeds,
carved staff by the door
Part of the charm of visiting Islas Uros, the floating islands of Lake Titicaca, is a chance to experience their lifestyle close up. After a group presentation, the residents take us by the hand, two-by-two, and lead us into their homes. The huts, constructed of totora reeds just like the entire island, contain just two beds, also made of reeds, covered with colorful handwoven spreads. Our host is a medicine man. His carved staff rests near the open door and one wall is decorated with the feathers of the sacred condor. He takes down one of his bamboo zamponas and sits on the larger bed to play a healing tune for us. Then he takes down some of the flamboyant skirts and jackets and hats hanging on the wall and puts them on over our western clothes. Back outside, he leads us to where his wife has spread her handmade crafts, but even the gestured invitation to purchase is as gentle as the sound of his pipes.
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